Siding contractor —
Seattle & Puget Sound.
Modern siding installations need a rain-screen gap between cladding and weather barrier. We furr out, vent, and detail so wind-driven rain doesn't reach the sheathing.
Modern siding installations need a rain-screen gap between cladding and weather barrier. We furr out, vent, and detail so wind-driven rain doesn't reach the sheathing. The 'old way' — siding nailed direct to housewrap — is the single biggest cause of moisture failures in PNW houses built between 1985 and 2005.
James Hardie fiber-cement is the workhorse cladding for Seattle. It holds paint, doesn't rot, and meets WUI fire-rating requirements. Cedar is the architectural upgrade when you want texture and warmth; metal panel is for modern designs where shadow-line aesthetic matters.
What we build
SCOPE- 01Rain-screen assembly
- 02James Hardie + cedar
- 03Standing-seam metal panel
- 04Continuous exterior insulation
- 05Window head + sill flashing
- 06Trim + casing detailing
Phased process
PROCESS- 01
Tear-off & assessment
Remove old siding, inspect sheathing for rot, fix damaged framing, install new weather-resistive barrier (Tyvek CommercialWrap or equivalent).
- 02
Window + door flashing
Self-adhered sill pan, head flashing, back-dam at sills, jamb tape per FMA 100 standards.
- 03
Rain screen
1/4" or 3/4" furring strips vertical, allow continuous airflow from foundation to ridge.
- 04
Continuous insulation (optional)
1" – 2" rigid mineral wool or polyiso outside the WRB for advanced thermal performance.
- 05
Cladding install
Hardie / cedar / metal panel installed per manufacturer spec, blind-nailed where possible, gaps at terminations.
- 06
Trim & finish
Trim casing at openings, corner boards, frieze, finish caulk and paint or pre-finished panel install.
Spec sheet
SPEC- +James Hardie HardiePlank (lap), HardiePanel (board-and-batten), HardieShingle (shake)
- +Western Red Cedar (clear vertical grain, smooth or rough-sawn)
- +Standing-seam metal panel (Bridger Steel, Reveal Metal)
- +Stucco (acrylic finish over EIFS or three-coat traditional)
- +Tyvek CommercialWrap or Henry Blueskin VP-100 self-adhered WRB
- +Cor-A-Vent SV-3 or DCI Sure Vent vented rain-screen battens
- +Continuous exterior mineral wool or polyiso insulation (1–2")
Cost drivers
COST- Material (Hardie → cedar → metal)Hardie $12–$18/sf → cedar $18–$28/sf → metal $20–$35/sf installed
- Two-story vs single-story+25–40% for staging and scaffolding
- Continuous insulation+$3–$8/sf depending on thickness and material
- Window count and trim style+$400–$1,200 per window for proper flashing and trim
- Tear-off vs over-claddingOver-cladding saves $4–$8/sf but only acceptable if existing WRB is intact (rare on PNW homes)
Codes & permits
COMPLIANCE- WSEC 2021 (continuous insulation)
Climate Zone 4C — Seattle and the Eastside — code now favors continuous exterior insulation. Required on most new builds; voluntary on remodels but high-ROI.
- IRC R703.2 (water-resistive barrier)
WRB required behind all siding installations. Self-adhered WRB (Henry Blueskin) is the gold standard for PNW.
- WUI (Wildland-Urban Interface)
Some eastern King County and Snohomish County parcels are now WUI-designated. Fiber-cement Hardie meets WUI; cedar typically does not without treatment.
Is siding the right call?
- →Visible siding damage, paint failure, or moisture infiltration
- →Replacement of original 1950s–1980s siding (T-111, hardboard, asbestos shingle)
- →Combining with window replacement and continuous insulation
- →Architectural redesign — modernizing exterior aesthetic
Siding questions
FAQQ.01
How long does Hardie siding last in Seattle?
30–50 years with proper installation and paint maintenance. Paint cycle is 8–12 years on premium acrylic; the substrate itself is essentially permanent.Q.02
Do I really need a rain screen?
Yes for any new install. PNW homes without rain screens have a documented track record of sheathing rot at 15–25 years. The added cost (~$2–$4/sf) is the cheapest insurance you can buy.Q.03
Can you side over the existing siding?
Sometimes, but rarely worth it. The original WRB is usually compromised, and you lose the chance to fix flashing failures. We recommend full tear-off in 90% of cases.Q.04
Cedar vs Hardie — which should I choose?
Hardie if you want low maintenance and 40+ year lifespan. Cedar if you want natural texture and accept 5–7 year stain or paint cycles. Many modern homes mix both — Hardie on weather walls, cedar on accent walls.
Official resources & sources
- Source ↗James Hardie Installation Best Practices
- Source ↗WSEC 2021 Residential Energy CodeEnvelope, HVAC, hot-water and air-sealing requirements
- Source ↗WA HB 1110 — Middle housing lawStatewide middle-housing zoning preemption
- Source ↗WA HB 1337 — ADU statewide rulesTwo-ADU baseline, no owner occupancy, parking limits
- Source ↗WA Dept. of Commerce — ADU resources
- Source ↗WA L&I contractor license lookupVerify Golden State ADU Builders Inc · GOLDESA747LZ
- Source ↗Washington State Building Code CouncilStatewide adopted codes (IRC, IBC, WSEC)
Ready to scope your siding project?
Send a paragraph and the address. A licensed PM replies within one business day with next steps.
INTERNAL_LINKS / Deep Map